Sentiero
A 19th-century painting depicting a bustling street scene in Naples, with vendors and people eating simple food.

History · Food

The Taste of Naples: A Short History of Pizza

Before it conquered the world, pizza was the simple, essential fuel of Naples, a street food eaten quickly and with joy.

The scent of wood smoke and ripe tomatoes hangs heavy on Via dei Tribunali, even in the morning. Here, in the heart of Naples, I stand outside a small pizzeria, watching a man deftly fold a hot pizza in half, then in half again, wrapping it in paper. This isn't a sit-down meal; it’s a pizza a portafoglio – a wallet pizza – meant to be eaten on the go, hot and perfect, right on the bustling street.

This simple act, a quick, delicious bite, is the echo of pizza's true beginning. Before it became a global phenomenon, a gourmet dish, or even a takeaway staple, pizza was the food of the Neapolitan working class: cheap, filling, and utterly delicious.

The short version

  • Pizza è nata a NapoliPizza was born in Naples
  • Era cibo di stradaIt was street food
  • La Margherita è un classicoThe Margherita is a classic
  • Ingredienti sempliciSimple ingredients

From Humble Beginnings

The ingredients that built a legend

For centuries, flatbreads with various toppings were common throughout the Mediterranean. But the pizza we know today, with its distinctive tomato base, truly began in Naples in the 17th and 18th centuries. Tomatoes, once thought poisonous, had arrived from the Americas and slowly found their way into Neapolitan kitchens, especially those of the poor.

These early pizzas were sold by street vendors, often from large copper containers kept warm over coals. They were a quick, energy-rich meal for labourers, port workers, and their families. The ingredients were basic: flour, water, salt, yeast, olive oil, and of course, tomatoes.

Simplicity, born of necessity, created an icon.

The Royal Touch: Pizza Margherita

The legend of the Pizza Margherita is perhaps the most famous chapter in pizza's history. In 1889, King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Naples. The Queen, tired of French haute cuisine, asked to try some local specialties. Raffaele Esposito, a pizzaiolo from Pizzeria Brandi, was called upon.

Esposito prepared three types of pizza, but it was the one topped with tomatoes (red), mozzarella (white), and fresh basil (green), representing the colors of the Italian flag, that captured the Queen's heart. He named it in her honor: Pizza Margherita. This elevated pizza from mere street food to a dish fit for royalty, solidifying its place in Italian culture.

Ordering Pizza in Naples
Una pizza margherita, per favore./ˈuna ˈpittsa marɡeˈriːta per faˈvoːre/A Margherita pizza, please.
Da asporto./da aˈspɔrto/To take away.
Una pizza a portafoglio./ˈuna ˈpittsa a portaˈfɔʎʎo/A folded street pizza.
Is pizza really from Naples?
Yes, the modern pizza as we know it, particularly with tomato sauce and mozzarella, originated in Naples, Italy. While flatbreads existed elsewhere, the Neapolitan combination of specific ingredients and cooking methods established pizza's unique identity in the 17th and 18th centuries.
What is the difference between Neapolitan and Roman pizza?
Neapolitan pizza (pizza napoletana) has a soft, chewy, thick crust with a puffy, airy edge (cornicione), cooked quickly at high temperatures. Roman pizza, on the other hand, typically has a much thinner, crispier crust, which can be more cracker-like and less airy.
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